Did you know the East Village is considered the San Sebastián of NYC? I personally didn’t, but that is what the sign in front of Huertas claims. I doubt that this is an accurate statement, but I definitely ate pintxos (Basque version of tapas) … or certainly something close to it.
Huertas is located in East village, a vibrant neighborhood known for its happening nightlife, trendy bars, and hip restaurants. During the day it is populated with a laid-back crowd frequenting casual cafés, vintage shops, and tattoo parlors.
Huertas definitely belongs to the first category, the atmosphere is buzzing and the ambiance enjoyable. Subdued lighting, bare brick walls, concrete floors, and wood all over the place contribute to make the place welcoming. The black panels on the walls with the hand-written menu and the dim light all around remind me somehow of the Basque restaurants I discovered in San Sebastián (the real one). The bar is on one side of the restaurant, where people can eat and drink, and the open kitchen is at the back. I love it when I can see the chef and the cooks preparing dishes.
In 2014 Jonah Miller and Nate Adler teamed up to open Huertas. Jonah is the chef and Nate the General manager and Beverage Director. They are both from NYC and both worked for Danny Meyer. Jonah Miller knew at the age of 14 he wanted to become a chef. He spent some time in Spain before opening Huertas. The first year was a struggle, but then the most incredible thing happened, the one and only Pete Wells, the New York Times’ food critic, showed up and it wasn’t even planned! Mr. Wells was supposed to grade a restaurant in the same neighborhood, but having trouble getting a table, decided with his friends to drop the restaurant and dine elsewhere. By luck or by merit, Pete Wells ended up loving Huertas and wrote a great article about it called “A Serendipitous Trip to Spain.”
Spaniards will probably analyze the menu and point out that some of the ingredients used for the pintxos (pronounced pinchos) are not from the Basque region, and neither are some of the dishes. Is that really so important when you are in Manhattan? I would argue no. But one thing is for sure, don’t ever call them tapas, Mr. Wells!
Chef Jonah Miller
We arrived at 7 pm and it didn’t take much time to see the restaurant fill up with people. The menu is presented in an envelope, waiting on the table to be opened. A few “Pintxos me” to start (small bites if you will) – very small in fact, just so you know, don’t expect to share them with the whole table. We ordered the croqueta, a must in my opinion, and the smoked pork melt: a grilled sliced baguette with ham and melted cheese – nothing spectacular but a nice way to start the dinner.
I ordered a glass of red wine, Cesca Vicent Priorat 2014, from Catalunya, a blend of Garnacha and Cabernet Sauvignon, a Spanish wine that paired very well with the Basque cuisine.
We charged on with the shared plates, starting with the pimientos. They were delicious and extremely hot! I hate when the pimientos taste nothing but bland.
The pulpo came just after: octopus prepared with pimento (smoked paprika) and potatoes. I have to say the octopus was divine – tender and full of taste.
This was followed by the setas, a variety of wild mushrooms sautéed with smoked garlic and parsley. They were excellent – probably my favorite dish!
You can’t miss the arroz in a Spanish restaurant. Unfortunately, you couldn’t taste the Saffron much but instead, the aioli was more pronounced. It wasn’t bad but it wasn’t great either.
For some reason, we thought we didn’t have enough and we ordered the Huevos Rotos: potato strands with chorizo and a poached egg. Jonah might have not followed the Basque recipe to the letter but the result was more than satisfactory.
We were totally stuffed and had to skip the dessert. Which is fine, as they have more post-dinner drinks than desserts. There are three choices: churros, cheese, and the dessert of the day. I would’ve happily ordered a glass of Huertas Vermut Housemade to enjoy the vibe a little bit more, but we decided to ask for the check. Huertas is a gratuity-free restaurant, which means you don’t have to tip, as the menu price includes the service. It’s a new trend that some restaurateurs are trying to implement in New York City. They have their followers and their dissenters; it’s a controversial subject among the restaurant workers but usually quite a relief for the patrons.
Huertas
107 1st Avenue, New York, NY 10003
📞 212-228-4490
Price: $$$
Monday-Thursday: 5:30-10 pm
Friday: 5:30pm-12am
Saturday: 3pm-12am
Sunday: 3-10pm
