I didn’t plan it this way, but finishing my stay in Paris with the restaurant Le Chateaubriand was perfect: a blend of French bistro style and gastronomy food. I didn’t read many reviews about the restaurant, but after looking at the pictures on Google I thought, if this casual bistro has a Michelin star, then the dishes must be as good as they are beautiful.
I was well inspired indeed! The creativity of chef Iñaki Aizpitarte has no limit, and the place has a vibrant bistro atmosphere. It’s maybe not suited for picky eaters, as there is one and only one set menu, take it or leave it! I don’t know if they accommodate vegetarians or people with allergies, it’s better to call them before making the reservation.
The place is not at all fancy or well decorated, the walls are off white and the tables and chairs are made of dark wood. The floor is covered with authentic little grey square tiles cracked at some places. The elements that contribute to the décor are the art deco bar at the entrance and the black frame with the name of all the wine producers they use. The servers wear a white shirt and black pants with a white apron.
Although the menu changes regularly, the gougère with poppy seed seems to be the signature of the chef and a safe bet to start the set menu.
A wine pairing is available but we preferred to choose our own bottle. The wine menu is quite thick and the task challenging, as we didn’t know what to expect. The servers don’t provide the menu and don’t tell you what’s coming. We ordered a bottle of Les Ardilles 2016: a wine from the Cellettes, a commune in the Loir-et-Cher, central France. It was light enough to go well with fish and meats.
Three little cups, almost like a doll’s tea set, were served with radish ceviche as the second amuse-bouche. It was delicious and citrusy; we wanted more!
Then came the fried crunchy little grey shrimps with paprika. This type of shrimp is found only in Europe. They are smaller and tastier than the pink ones.
The samphire with pork jelly might not have been the most appealing dish but I found it very tasty and the texture was soft and pleasant. It was presented on a golden plate that highlighted the green color of the meal.
It didn’t please everyone though.
The crab consommé was exquisite and rich in flavor.
The skate fish served with potato purée and chive, parsley, and tarragon were absolutely amazing. The skate is one of my favorite fish and I loved the blend of fresh herbs on the potato.
The hake with white asparagus and grated raw white asparagus was completely white and delicious. I liked that they cut all the ingredients into small pieces, this allows you to collect all the flavors in one spoonful.
Two preparations of duck – fillet and pâté – sprinkled with broccoli and raisins. I’m always impressed when chefs come up with a creative dish using simple and common ingredients.
The first dessert was kind of surprising I would have to say: a tangerine sorbet topped with pistachio and arugula lying on a bed of black olive tapenade. I won’t say it wasn’t good, it was special to have this blend – for dessert no less.
The real dessert to me was the candied yolk on a caramel and almond shortbread biscuit. It was a bite-sized piece that filled the mouth with a pleasant and sweet flavor. It was so cute that we wanted to savor it right away. And guess what, I forgot to take the picture…
To finish the discovery dinner we had mango slices with fennel seeds and some Indian spices. You know – the ones we see in every Indian restaurant in a bowl at the entrance. It’s called mithi saunf: a colorful Indian digestive aid widely used as a mouth freshener, especially after meals.
Le Chateaubriand got his Michelin star last year, a well-deserved reward to chef Iñaki Aizpitarte!
Le Chateaubriand
129 Avenue Parmentier, 75011 Paris
📞+33 1 43 57 45 95
Price: $$$
Set menu: €75
Open Tuesday to Saturday: 7 – 11 pm
