Those who have been following me for a while know by now my passion for Japanese fusion cuisine.
L’inconnu is no exception to the rule: a combination of Italian cuisine and local products orchestrated by a talented Japanese chef, Koji Higaki.
Higaki-san, after working in Osaka, moved to Venice, Italy to deepen his knowledge of Italian cuisine. In 2009, he decided that Paris would be the next step in his career. He worked for Passage 53 – a two Michelin-starred restaurant – as a sous-chef, and in 2015 he fulfilled his dream by opening his own restaurant: L’Inconnu.
I went to the restaurant knowing it was a good one but not knowing just how good it was. The food is simply amazing! Different amuse-bouches were served before the appetizer, putting our expectations quite high. The little rice sheets with mousse in the shape of a fleur-de-lys – a motif that is associated with the French monarchy – were beautifully presented on a wooden board.
The bread was warm and soft, with herbs, and shaped in a cube. After that, chef Higaki could only keep the level high. I’m afraid no faux pas could’ve been tolerated!
The chef suggests a seasonal seven-course menu for €80 and a lighter version – a four-course menu – for €60 (the prices have gone up since the opening of the restaurant.) We regrettably opted for the light version but I highly recommend the full version for dinner.
We started with the cacciucco, a seafood carpaccio with haddock mousse. Fresh and delicate, presented on a transparent dish; it looked like floating air.
The first main dish was cod Ribollita with black cabbage. Ribollita is a Tuscan bread soup made with vegetables and beans. It was served with beet sauce that brought out the perfect flavor from the dish. The fish was cooked to perfection and juicy.
Unfortunately, we skipped the pigeon, it sounded delicious! We went directly to the tortellini with ricotta and pecorino sauce. For a supplement of €30, it was possible to add black truffle, but for me, the dish was delicious just like that. The cooking of the pasta was al dente but not at all too hard.
For desserts, we had the méla e pasta sfoglia, an exquisite preparation with apple, hazelnuts, and apple jelly. It was presented as a cylinder that we couldn’t wait to break to discover the filling.
We ended our fabulous dinner with three little canelés. It’s more a specialty of the Bordeaux region than from Italy, but it’s so good that we won’t argue!
Monte Carbonare, a 100% Garganega, was an excellent white wine choice from our sommelier. It paired perfectly well with our dinner.
The décor at L’Inconnu is simple and elegant, just like the cuisine of chef Koji Higaki. There is no overload in the tastes; the flavors are balanced and the visuals impeccable.
I met Chef Koji at his restaurant. I couldn’t have a real conversation with him as he doesn’t speak French well, but from what I’ve seen he is modest and a bit shy. The kitchen is his sanctuary, and like a true artist, his work is where he expresses himself the best.
L’Inconnu
4 Rue Pierre Leroux, 75007 Paris
📞+33 1 53 69 06 03
Price: $$$
Seven-course menu: €80
Four-course menu: €60
Closed Monday
Tuesday – Saturday: 12 – 2 pm, 7:30 – 9:30 pm
Sunday: 12 – 2 pm
It could easily be a 1-star Michelin!!!!
Yes Gaetan, I so agree with you!