This is my coup de Coeur, my favorite, my love at first sight!

Two charming and handsome – they really are – young men, both finalists of Top Chef in 2014 and 2015, Thibault Sombardier and Kevin d’Andréa pooled their knowledge and their passion to open this fabulous bistro: Mensae. Chef Thibault Sombardier is far from a novice in the field; he is the head chef at Antoine, a Michelin-starred restaurant in the 16th arrondissement. (Read my blog post).
Mensae is located in the 19th arrondissement, away from the touristy and posh areas of Paris, close to the Buttes-Chaumont Park. The Belleville area, where Edit Piaf was born, is “the place to be” according to d’Andréa, it’s the happening neighborhood, where things are moving.
The design of the restaurant is very simple and clean: a solid wood bar at the entrance, hardwood floors, wooden tables and chairs, neutral colors on the walls decorated with copper cookware, and big bay windows showing the interior of the restaurant. Mensae, meaning ‘table’ in Latin – which explains the logo – is written in large letters on the window. You can’t miss the place!
No fuss, no glitter, the atmosphere is casual and light. The menu is quite succinct with a few tapas: cuisse de grenouilles, charcuteries, tarama… and four fish and protein dishes to share for entrées. But my favorite is on the following page, the set menu for €36 – yes, you heard me!
Three choices to choose from each category – appetizer, entree, and dessert – each dish is well thought-out as much for its visual appeal as for its flavors. I ordered the poelée of escargot, with mushrooms and parsley mousse. It was refined and delicious, completely different from the traditional escargot à l’ail (escargot with garlic). My daughter ordered the crab, it was so well presented that at first, I regretted my choice, but I loved my dish too. The crab meat was spicy and tender, covered with a deconstructed pyramid made of crispy rice galettes. The leek soup with coconut and curry was exquisite. From a simple leek soup, the chef created a whole new world where the flavors mingle but aren’t overpowering.
The bar was set very high and our expectations were growing every second. The entrées did not disappoint us! The Iberique pluma (Spanish pork), Angus beef, and Pollock fish were amazing! I ordered the fish; it was cooked to perfection and melted in my mouth into the Haddock mousse.
The wine list is not particularly elaborate; they have interesting bottles in terms of quality and variety, with decent prices.
I chose the cheese platter for dessert but I really wished I had ordered the tiramisu served with coffee ice cream, the citrus with white chocolate, or the chocolate mousse. The latter was unexpectedly succulent. Chocolate mousse, in general, is delicious but this one was unforgettable. Ask my daughter – she’s still dreaming about it. A scoop of vanilla ice cream was hidden underneath the chocolate and both blended merrily in the mouth.
The citrus with white chocolate was simply divine, a wonderful mix of flavors with tangerine sorbet.
Although my own tiramisu is loved and cherished – what can I say, I’m proud of it – this one was as delicious and maybe even more so!
Since the opening of Mensae in 2015, chef d’Andréa has left the partnership to explore other horizons. Chef Sombardier is still on board and brilliantly manages the restaurant. He just opened Sellae, his new baby. I can’t wait to try it!
Mensae
23 Rue Melingue, 75019 Paris
📞+33 1 53 19 80 98
Price: $$$
Set menu: €36
Closed Sunday and Monday
Subway: Pyrénées line 11
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