I don’t need to introduce you anymore to Enrique Olvera, the chef-owner of Pujol in Mexico City, who partnered with chef Daniela Soto-Innes at Cosme and Atla. He is the world-renowned chef who is redefining Mexican cuisine!
Netflix devoted a whole episode to Chef Olvera in its television documentary Chef’s Table. His restaurant Pujol is ranked nº20 in the 2017 world’s best restaurants. Cosme, nº40 in the 2017 world’s best restaurants, is a big hit in New York, and not long ago he opened Atla, a neighborhood modern Mexican restaurant.
Atla is a sister restaurant to Cosme (read my blog post), but more casual and less expensive. Most of the dishes are $20 or less. Enrique Olvera and Daniela Soto-Innes have proven more than once that their partnership works efficiently and leads to success. I went to Atla twice and twice I was delighted by the flavors that came out of the dishes. Besides my Mexican friend Lupita, no one connected me with Mexican cuisine more so than Olvera, and he made me realize that there is much more than tacos and fajitas in Mexico!
Atla is located on the corner of Great Jones and Lafayette Street in Soho. It’s a strategic location, as the large sidewalks allow the restaurant to have tables outside when the weather is pleasant. It was the case last time I went there and we were seated outside. I can’t say it’s quiet and relaxing, as Soho is a busy neighborhood. Nevertheless, I enjoyed my time on the terrace with my daughter trying new dishes on the menu.
The interior décor is uncluttered with white tiles on the floor. The tables and chairs are made of light wood, the front and side walls are painted black with climbing plants, and a long bar made of light grey granite runs along the back white wall. The first time I went to Atla the weather was grey and rainy, but the big glass windows made the place very bright. The décor is maybe too simple but I suppose the chefs wanted us to focus on the dishes. These are colorful and beautifully presented. Even the Guacamole dish with the giant crispy tortilla will surprise you.
It’s quite unusual the way they divided the menu, and I’m not sure why they did it that way. If you order before 1 pm you have the breakfast list and after 1 pm the lunch-dinner list. Most of the dishes are vegetarian, but there are a few with fish or chicken. Just before 1 pm, we ordered the guacamole goat cheese toast. I loved the herbs they sprinkled on the tomatoes. Each bite has its own flavor – sometimes the mint comes first, sometimes the tarragon, the basil, or a mix of other herbs.
That same day we ordered from the post-1pm menu the ceviche verde and the Brussels sprout taco.
The ceviche was served with cucumbers, fennel, and avocado. It was presented with a big crispy taco, a slice of lime, and a ribbon of red onion. It was succulent, citrusy, and fresh.
The taco with the Brussels sprout had another flavor, a tad bitter and flavored with herbs. Absolutely delicious!
The second time I wanted to order different dishes to be sure this place was worth my recommendation. The herb guacamole is highly recommended and the pambazo is excellent. Pambazo is a Mexican sandwich made with bread dipped in a red guajillo pepper sauce and filled with papas con chorizo – a preparation made of potatoes and chorizo. The bread used for pambazos is like brioche but without the sweetness. I was totally surprised by the taste.
The traditional tlayuda is a dish from Oaxacan cuisine. It’s a large, thin, crunchy, fried or toasted tortilla covered with a spread of refried beans, asiento (unrefined pork lard), lettuce or cabbage, avocado, meat (usually shredded chicken, beef tenderloin, or pork), Oaxaca cheese, and salsa. At Atla the tlayuda was prepared with cauliflower instead of meat – changes with the season – and topped with fresh mixed herbs. It seems repetitive but it would be so sad not to have these changing herb flavors. It’s hard to talk about a favorite dish because they are all excellent, but I have to say this one was maybe my favorite.
My next stop at Atla will be to try their cocktails. They have quite a few choices that I would love to explore with you. Anyone interested? Cheers!
Atla
372 Lafayette St, New York
📞 646-837-6464
Price: $$
Monday-Wednesday: 9 am-11 pm
Thursday-Saturday: 9-2 am
Sunday: 9am-10pm
